When the British acquired the Koh-i-Noor diamond from India, it was initially presented to the public in its natural, uncut state during the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. However, the response was underwhelming as many observers found it challenging to believe that such a seemingly ordinary stone held any significant value. Recognizing the need to enhance its brilliance and allure, Prince Albert commissioned the recutting and polishing of the diamond, resulting in a significant transformation. Unfortunately, this process resulted in the diamond losing approximately half of its original size.

The Koh-i-Noor diamond's recutting exemplifies the significant influence of gemstone cuts on society. It was transformed to enhance its aesthetic appeal and captivate viewers, showcasing the cultural importance given to brilliance and beauty. This story emphasizes how gemstone cuts shape perception, value, and reception, profoundly impacting a stone's desirability and historical significance.

In Western society, the brilliance and sparkle of gemstones, particularly diamonds, have long been associated with beauty and prestige. The meticulous faceting and precise proportions of the cut create a dazzling display of light reflections. This focus on light performance has become deeply ingrained in the perception of beauty, reinforcing the belief that a gemstone's worth lies in its ability to capture and reflect light.

Yet, as society evolves, there is a growing appreciation for the inherent beauty of solid stones. The rise of alternative gemstones and unique cuts that showcase the natural textures and colours of the minerals challenge the traditional emphasis on light performance. These unconventional cuts highlight the raw and organic qualities of gemstones, embracing their individuality and celebrating their distinct characteristics.

The future of gemstone cuts holds the potential to reshape the perception of beauty in Western society. As we embrace a more sustainable and ethical approach to the industry, there is a growing interest in gemstones that go beyond the traditional faceted cuts. The emphasis may shift towards cuts that accentuate the natural patterns, inclusions, and textures of the stones, appreciating their uniqueness rather than conforming to a standardised ideal of brilliance.

In my work I explore the future of gemstone cuts, it is important to recognize that beauty is subjective and constantly evolving. Society's perception of beauty will continue to shift, influenced by cultural, social, and environmental factors. Embracing diverse perspectives and celebrating the inherent beauty of gemstones in all their forms will pave the way for a more inclusive and dynamic future in the world of jewellery and gemstone cuts.

The name of each brooch is a reflection on existing gemstone cuts: Fanzy, Emerald, Tapered, Marquise, Pear, Princess, Square and Trilliant.